Showing posts with label Bruce Lee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bruce Lee. Show all posts

Monday, March 16, 2015

Hongkong The American Club and Enter the Dragon History

A few of the more popular posts from my old blog covered the topic of the location used for filming the tournament scenes in Enter the Dragon. It seems that for a lot of people this topic never gets old, and people still contact me about it quite regularly - especially so since I took the old posts offline. In the interests of Lee fans around the world and to avoid several overlapping posts, I've merged them together into a single consolidated post below, which has also given me the chance to relook at some things and include some pictures I left out first time round.

So, just how much of the tournament grounds from Enter the Dragon still exist? The answer is, sadly, absolutely nothing since the whole area was redeveloped into two main sites: The American Club and Pacific View apartments. But thankfully some glimpses of the place's kung fu past can still be found if you look hard enough.

 Stanley Lodge, Tytam Villa and Palm Villa from above (Source: HK Govt)

The American Club is actually sitting on a several originally separate plots previously occupied by three very large and expansive mansions: Stanley Lodge, Tytam Villa, and Palm Villa. According to Eric Ho's book Tracing my Children's Lineage, the mansions had undergone various changes in ownership within the rather vast and varied offshoots/branches of the Ho Tung dynasty. By the 1980's it was the Lo's who owned Stanley Lodge and Palm Villa. Regardless, the land for all three buildings was sold to the American Club and their new country club premise was built and opened in 1984. I've marked out the approximate extent of each mansion and grounds on the picture below. As you can see, Palm Villa with its stepped courts occupied the largest plot of land.



If you read my film locations blog you should be aware that Tytam Villa popped up in the Chuck Norris film Forced Vegeance, and most savvy Lee fans should know that it was Palm Villa whose grounds were used for the filming of Enter the Dragon. I haven't found any films that used Stanley Lodge yet, but if you know of one please let me know :-)

Palm Villa's tennis courts became the outdoor location for the tournament scenes quite by luck. It seems that Lee and other members of the production crew were out scouting for possible places when they noticed the tennis courts. They stopped off and soon discovered the property was being looked after by M.W. Lo. It must have been serendipity that Lo was a distant relative of Bruce through marriage*. The property was actually owned by the elder brother, M.K, who had died in 1959, so I'm not sure what ownership the house was under at the time - perhaps under some sort of family trust?

Anyway,  M.W was the estate's custodian and was also a well-regarded local attorney with the family law firm Lo & Lo � set up by M.K in 1915. This firm, incidentally, was the one employed by Bruce to deal with his legal matters up to the time of his death, after which they were unceremoniously dumped in favour of Adrian Marshall. Hmmm

Well, when M.W. wasn�t practicing law he was practising his back swing and was quite the expert winning several local tennis tournaments and even competing with M.K. and their sister in doubles competitions. In fact, he is one of the enshrinees at the Hong Kong Tennis Association Hall of Fame. On the old blog post I had quite a few interesting comments from people who used to play tennis with M.W. and his family and have copied them below for posterity.
Jeff: This brings back some memories! I used to play tennis at these courts with M.W and his son Ken, and many other friends, every Sunday afternoon. I recall the courts being converted for the Bruce Lee movie, and we all had our photographs taken sitting on the large throne chair on one of the courts.
Kiska: M.W�s house was called Longview and was on the opposite side of the road to the American Club...I still have old cine film at M.W�s Sunday tennis parties. Only men were allowed to play tennis on his courts with the exception of Wimbledon lady winners, but we ordinary ladies were included in the social activities. I was invited to dinner and bridge at his house on several occasions...M.W was truly the grand old man of tennis and I remember him very fondly. He was also an intrepid bridge player and took me to the cleaners more than once!
Peter: I�m M.W Lo�s grandson, now living in New Zealand. I was fascinated to read that you have some movie footage of the tennis parties. My father and brothers used to play at those tennis matches...
Longview (#45 Tai Tam Road) is mentioned by Kiska above as being M.W's house, this is true and it was still there until a few years ago when it was sold and developed into several smaller (but still massive) properties. In fact, there is a brief glimpse of Longview in Enter the Dragon - blink and you'll miss it - see below. It pops into view just after Bruce breaks Bob's Wall neck. Crunch! When M.W died in 1986, it was sold on. More recently a company called National Electronics Holdings Limited got hold of the place and they are the ones who have just ripped it down. It's a big shame because it was a lovely looking house and reportedly had the very last grass tennis court in HK (for those who don't know, grass is a very rare thing in HK). It can also be seen on the aerial picture - it's the white property in the bottom right of that photograph.

M.W.Lo's other house, Longview, in the background.

Anyway, getting back to Palm Villa and the tennis courts. Fans would probably like to know which actual bits of it were used on film. So to help, I've put some legends on the picture of the estate.


As you can see the grounds had three grass tennis courts, marked upper, middle and lower. Most of the fighting action, and where Han's throne was sited, was in the middle court. Here's a reminder from the film itself to give you a bit of context.

The lower tennis court
The middle court (where the main action was)

Upper court at the back. The middle and upper courts
were separated by the fountain (on the right)

I just mentioned the fountain, and I also marked it on the aerial picture because this smaller enclosure also featured on film when Lee's character leaps up into a tree to avoid detection in a dodgy bit of reverse film editing. The fountain area has a circular pond in its centre and during filming this contained the tree he leapt from. Anyway, it looked like it also used to hold a fountain - hence the name I have given it to distinguish it from the private garden adjacent to the mansion. This is the small lawn that was immediately adjacent to the mansion. Sadly, I don't think any of this area was used for filming, although it's possible some of the night scenes, when Lee goes exploring, could have been filmed in there. Regardless, we'll come back to the garden later because it is the only remaining part of the estate that is now part of the American Club.

When the Palm Villa site was sold, it was actually broken up into three separate plots. The main plot, bought by the American Club, consisted of the Villa and its adjacent garden. This plot and the neighbouring plots with Tytam Villa and Stanley Lodge now contain the entirety of the club's grounds. The second plot consisted of the enclosure with the fountain and two of the three tennis courts. The upper court was seemingly split down the middle for the sake of redevelopment. This second plot was later sold on to Sun Hung Kai Properties - a developer that was just recently the centre of a bribery scandal and court case - and was redeveloped into the present day Pacific View apartment complex.

The third plot of land consisted of a sliver of land between the other two sites and included part of the upper tennis court. It's essentially the strip of land that separates the two redeveloped areas and it was retained by the Govt. The American Club actually leases this land back from the Govt on a rolling 3-month basis. The reason for this short lease is that the Govt has been planning to reroute the Tai Tam Road between Pacific View and The American Club in order to remove the nasty bend in the road. Personally, I think the idea is a bit dumb, but that's HK Govt planning for you. The fact that nothing has been done about it in all these years is perhaps an indication that it won't happen. I'm sure I will regret saying that some day.

It's down this small sliver of land that a public pathway has been constructed so that you can access the pebbly beach at the bottom. You remember the beach, don't you? It's where the characters in the film disembark their junk to a stone jetty and walk the path up to Han's fortress. It was also used in the beginning of the film when you see the frogman pulling the girl's body out of the water. This is about the only part of the area that has remained undeveloped (that is, until they slap that road right through the middle). On an aside, Pillbox 029 is also situated right here too, next to the stone jetty. So war buffs also have something to wander down to and have a look. Here are a few pictures of the area from 2011, starting with the gate on Tai Tam Road that leads you down to the beach.


The beach as seen from The American Club terrace

Pillbox #29 also has a brief cameo in the film

Pillbox, small cutting and stone jetty seen from the beach

This place looks familiar...
oh yes, that's right!


This latter shot shows you just how much Pacific View encroaches upon the old tennis court area. The pink base you can see sits on the site where the lower court was. I suspect that the site formation for this development involved excavating down to a flat base before the building work could start - unless anyone living at Pacific View is able to confirm that the building is on a stepped/sloped base?

So as you can see, it has all gone. Just the beach and jetty remain. But what about inside the club? Well, as mentioned earlier, none of the film seems to have been shot within the perimeter of the American Club. I did postulate (in the previous incarnation of this post) that the night time scenes may have utilised some of the estates other parts but I'm not so convinced anymore. Even if it did, I have no real reference for comparison because everything has gone. Anyway, on my trip to the club in 2011, I did take a few pictures, so I'll leave it to you to judge if anything can be recognised.

So here we are at the former garden area. Well, as mentioned this is the only part of the old estate that is still in-situ. It even still has the very distinctive coral-topped walls that were used in the construction of all the estates walls - apparently the coral was taken from the sea below and brought up during construction. Here is what is inside the garden - it has now been converted into a small sports ground for basketball and the like.

This is at the end closest to Tai Tam Road.

The wall constructed of stones and topped with coral.

Wall furthest from the road (closer to the coast)

Okay, so this wall is the original one and if you look closely on my aerial picture below you will see the curve of it around the garden.


The garden itself has been resurfaced into an all weather pitch and the wall has had the green mesh fence put on top - no doubt to prevent over-zealous Lee fans (I know a few) from jumping the wall in the mistaken belief they are treading on hallowed ground. There are a couple of interesting things nearby. On the other side of the curved wall - essentially outside of the clubs grounds but still on their leased-back sliver - is a small round out house (i.e. toilet block). You can just make it out on the picture above below the red line, but here is a close-up taken whilst precariously perched on some tableware - hence the green mesh that crept into view.


Here is where the fans should get excited because this building can be seen in several shots as the cameras positioned in the middle tennis court looking back in the direction of the house. I have since learned that this building was in fact taken as a dressing room by Ahna Capri herself. Now, the rumours are that Bruce got a bit pee'd off by this news - after all he was the star of the film - and demanded a dressing room for himself. The compromise was that he shared this room with Ahna and...well, you know Bruce and his reputation with women. Let's just say...hmmm...nothing ;o)

If you are mad enough you can reach this out house from the beach and/or pathway down to the beach. It takes a bit of bushwhacking but it has been accomplished by several people I know. You can see the out house's nice clean white top on the screen grab below, poking just over the wall of the middle tennis court. Compare that to 40 years of neglect in the picture above.

The out-house - aka Ahna and Bruce's shared dressing room

Moving on and I took a couple of pictures from the top of the strange pavilion at the other end of the old garden. The steps in the picture below lead up the back of the structure onto the small roof terrace. I'm still not sure if this place was seen on camera, maybe just brief snippets, I don't know, but the view from the top gives a better impression of the extent of the old garden (lower picture). Note the new section of wall on the left.



Just to the left of the new section of wall (of camera, far left) is the single remaining curved arch doorway that will be familiar to anyone who has seen the film. The estate's grounds had them wherever a doorway was needed. Sadly I neglected to take a picture, mainly because it had been bricked up, but if you are down this way you can see the other side of from the pavement outside. What is curious is that on the club side of the doorway is the following brass plaque.


Now, when John Little was filming here for his In Pursuit of the Dragon documentary in August 2009, he told me there was no plaque, but when I visited in March 2011 it was on the wall. I wonder if it was John's recent interest that had spurred the club to put up this commemorative plate? Well, it doesn't matter because the fact is that the plaque isn't really that accurate given that all the 'most famous Kung Fu fights in movie history' were actually filmed on the other side of the wall on a site that has long since been redeveloped.

Hmm, funny that they didn't mention Men of the Dragon though...I wonder why :-)

* M.W. Lo's older brother, M.K. Lo, had married one of Sir Robert Ho Tung's daughters. Bruce's mother, Grace, was the daughter - natural or adopted, it's open for debate - of Sir Robert's half-brother, Ho Kom Tong. It gets very confusing because there are literally hundreds of members in this particular family tree.

Friday, January 23, 2015

Hongkong Lee Hoi Chuen's Grave, Cheung Sha Wan History

Lee Hoi Chuen was not just famous (in HK, at least) for being a Cantonese opera and movie actor, he also gained significant fame in later life (well, perhaps posthumously...) because he was the father of Bruce Lee. 


I was told about his final resting place several years ago, but had put it on the back burner for the fact that trying to find a grave in a Hong Kong cemetery is a bit like trying to find a needle in a haystack. It wasn't until I moved to Kowloon, in the vicinity of St Raphael's Catholic Cemetery, that the Lee grave came back on the radar - largely because I was beginning to pass the place on a fairly regular basis on the bus or in a taxi. Also, it's almost exactly 50 years to the day since he died (7th Feb 1965) so I thought perhaps this was a good time to post.

Finding specific graves in HK is hard enough even when you have approximate locations, many of the big cemeteries here have thousands upon thousands of graves lined on terrace after terrace (HK doesn't have flat cemeteries - I assume due to the lack of practical space but also because of 'fung shui' considerations), but luckily for me I was given the section and terrace number by a friend who had visited very recently.

The cemetery itself is located at the very far end of Cheung Sha Wan. I say Cheung Sha Wan, but if you wish to get here by MTR then you need to get on the red Tsuen Wan <-> Central line and alight at Lai Chi Kok station exit B1. Lai Chi Kok station is a tiny bit closer.


Head north (i.e. turn left) up Tai Nan West St and at the junction with Wing Hong St you must turn right and walk until you get to the cooked food centre on the corner of Yu Chau West St. Turn left and immediate right again onto Wing Ming St. Straight up the road you will be able to see the Caritas Hospital (Ming Oi Yi Yuen - sadly a place I am all too familiar with courtesy of a very nasty broken toe last year). Here's the view from the bottom of the road.

Wing Ming St
Just on the left past the buildings is a small cluster of greenery which marks the turning into the cemetery underpass that takes you underneath Ching Cheung Road and into the cemetery grounds. It's actually signposted as below, so you can't miss it.

Fan Cheung...??

Nonchalantly walk past the gate guard and head all the way up the road to section 4. It's all the way at the back at the end of the driveway but you'll still need to keep your eyes open for the stone section markers so you don't wander too far.


Lee's grave is situated on terrace III of section 4. The picture below shows a view looking up towards the terrace from the bottom of the steps. Note that it does have a sign that says "4 III".


Can you see the rather lush fir tree behind the railings? Well, the grave you seek is next to the tree, but in case you still need guidance you can look for the grave number 8220. The number is on Mr Lee's grave picture (the one at the top of this post) and it is also on the stone incense holder at the base of the grave.


It's a fairly nondescript grave for someone who was reasonably wealthy and quite famous and looks like it is looked after quite well - the engraved characters look newly painted but I'm not sure if there are any family members left in HK to look after it. As I mentioned at the beginning of the post, this grave is coming up to 50 years old.

I was lucky and visited this place on a rather fine day - perhaps a tad too warm - but as you can see, the vantage point gives a pretty good view out over Kowloon. Most of those high-rises are relatively recent additions and back in 1965 (and probably into the 80's) the view would have been very open.


The view up to the next terrace.
As in life, HKer's stacked one on top of each other.

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Hongkong Fist of the Unicorn � another �lost� Bruce Lee location rediscovered History

Not long after finally nailing down the location for the fight scene between Sammo Hung and Bruce Lee at the beginning of Enter The Dragon, I turned my attention to the next Lee-related film location challenge. Strictly speaking the film in question, Fist of the Unicorn (a.k.a Unicorn Fist/Bruce Lee and I), wasn't a Lee film at all - he had simply come to the set as a favour to his friend (the star, Unicorn Chan) and helped choreograph a fight scene. The location involved was a seemingly non-descript rural place with a small river and, other than that, no clues were obvious. It was an interesting bit of investigation and worthwhile repeating for any curious Lee fans who didn't read it when I originally posted back in 2011.

I was curious about this place simply because I couldn't find any other information about it, and I was in full-on Lee location finding mode. This place seemed to have eluded other fans and so I figured it would be good to have a stab and see what I could find.



The back story is also worth outlining briefly because it's a good example of the sort of stuff Lee was dealing with towards the end of his life. 

Lee had returned to Hong Kong to try and secure a film deal on the back of the various film and TV shows he had been doing in the US. Unbeknownst to him at the time, the Green Hornet series had made him into a local hero and as a consequence he was in a good position to try his luck. One of his childhood film star friends, Little Unicorn (whom he had co-starred in an old Cantonese films called Blame it on Father), had pulled some strings for Lee and got him some face time with some of the local film makers including Sir Run Run Shaw. It was a great example of what is known in Cantonese as gwaan hai (??) but is perhaps more familiar by its pinyin form: Guanxi. Basically, the personal networks and favour-granting that are quite fundamental in Chinese culture and are probably largely to blame for the massive corruption culture over here...

Anyway, as a result of these arrangements Lee was indebted to Unicorn and, in the spirit of reciprocation, knew that one day he would be duty bound to offer help in return. As it turned out, Lee was offered a tempting deal by Raymond Chow at the newly formed Golden Harvest and the rest is history. Over the next 2 years, Bruce made three films for Raymond Chow (two of which also featured Unicorn in small roles) and shot to super stardom in HK.

The circumstances aren't clear, but sometime around the middle of 1972, Unicorn approached a production company wanting to make a film and used his friendship with Bruce to secure a deal. The deal was that he would get a starring role as long as he could rope in his buddy in some way or another, that way the film could exploit Bruce's involvement and hopefully make some money.

This alternative title aptly underscores its Bruceploitation! 

Bruce walked into the situation without much choice and with full knowledge that he was being exploited, but it appears he underestimated what the production would do with the footage. It's not known for certain what he was expecting, perhaps he just thought his name would be used in the credits as fight choreographer? But what actually happened that Lee was filmed for several minutes putting some of the actors through their paces in preparation for a fight scene. Whether or not he was aware of the filming isn't clear but the footage was used at both the beginning and end of the film and a double (filmed from the neck down wearing the same clothes!!) was used in an inserted scene at a temple.

When the film eventually saw the light of day in the first few months of 1973 and was marketed as a Bruce Lee film, well, you can imagine that Lee was a bit peeved and it is my understanding that he launched some sort of legal action against the film makers. I don't think it was resolved before his death (he was also in the middle of suing one of HK's tabloid papers for other reasons when he died), and so we are left with a fairly bog-standard kung fu flick with all the usual stuff going on, but with some footage of Bruce Lee messing around with the actors (if you are curious, you can still view the film trailer here)

Anyway, let�s get back to that location. The available footage was filmed somewhere near to what looks like a river, and if you watch the film you will know that this river also has a very distinctive bridge going over it. So here are a couple of screen grabs to set the scene. 


That�s Bruce centre-screen. Note a few things: the river in the background (in the video you can see it is flowing towards us) and the bend it makes at the back. These were my first clues to the location. Let�s see another picture.


This one gives us a few more clues. First is that someone has disappeared into the background and dropped down onto the river bank (you can see their head between the two guys on the right). Also notice the partially exposed river bank in the background � can you see the dark line that runs along the middle? It�s a tidal mark and you should make a note of it because we will come back to it later. 
The next shot is actually taken from the film and I�ll be honest, this was the clincher for me. It took a while to identify but anyway, here it is as it appears on film.


This bridge features a lot in the film. It is basically next to the place where the young boy � played by Meng Hoi � lives with his mum. So it�s no surprise that a lot of filming took place around here and, of course, was next to the spot where Bruce was filmed doing the fight rehearsals. Here is a more modern shot, albeit taken from the opposite side of the river bank. Many people familiar with Sai Kung countryside will probably be able to place this bridge immediately once they see the next picture.


Yes, that�s right, this is the famous stone bridge that crosses the tidal river in Pak Tam Chung � also known as the Fuk Hing Bridge. And, yes, that IS its actual name! In case you need further convincing here is a shot from a HK Govt website that shows the background ridge-line much better than my shot (when I took these photos it was fairly hazy). See it in its original context right here.

Courtesy of AFCD

You can see the same (okay, it's been stretched a bit by the aspect ratio of the film) bumpy ridge-line in the background that can be seen behind the actors in the screen grab below.

Meng Hoi and Unicorn Chan

So what about the place where the fight choreography was going on...where Bruce was being filmed? Well, it�s not far away from the bridge � just a few metres in fact. The actual spot now looks to be over grown and has the Pak Tam Chung nature trail running through it (complete with concreted pathway), but the general area looks quite similar. I can confirm that there is a flowing �river� as seen on the clip but it is a tidal flow from the sea which explains why in the clip the water is running towards us - it was most likely filmed in the morning during an incoming tide. It was doing exactly the same when I was there on my exploratory trip.

There is also a river bank of sorts. It's not seen in the footage but we know its there because someone walks down to it. It's largely rocky and algae covered, but the one thing I did notice (and, remember, I told you to take a note of it) is that the opposite bank of the river � with its dark tidal stripe running along the middle - looks the same as it did in 1972. No surprise really. Here is a shot from my trip.


Compare it again (but remember the film grab is slightly stretched by its letterbox aspect).


Now, I couldn�t create the exact angle from the exact point because it's too overgrown. My camera should really be about 30 or 40 feet to the left of where I was standing so the background isn�t quite perfect - but this is as close as we can get after a break of 39 years. However, even from this closer angle the black line along the far bank is a perfect match. In case you can�t see it here it is indicated.


I reckon that the Pak Tam Chung nature trail pathway runs along the edge of the area they are on (where the guy�s head is) because even today there is a bit of a steep drop onto the river embankment.

Anyway, for those fans who are still keen to visit Lee-related film locations then you can easily get to this place by catching the #94 bus from Sai Kung bus terminus and get off at the Pak Tam Chung barrier gate (which marks the entrance to the Sai Kung Country Park). Walk along the road on the right hand side and after a couple of hundred metres you will see the bridge immediately on your right.

My parting shot is to give you a GoogleEarth shot of the same area (ringed in red) and you can see the Fuk Hing Bridge just to the north of it. Just put these coordinates into GoogleEarth to find it on there: 22�23�53.40?N 114�19�19.69?E


Friday, November 28, 2014

Hongkong In search of Bruce Lee�s last filming location History

My claims to fame are so few and far between that every so often I feel the need to relive some old glory, and so here is a look back at one of the more challenging, and ultimately frustrating, film location identifications I became involved with back in the summer of 2009.

I had been contacted in May or June time by a chap called John Little - perhaps not that well known to many readers here but a big name in both the bodybuilding and Bruce Lee worlds.For those who don't know, John is famous in the world of fitness and exercise for his regular writing and research into bodybuilding and he also made quite a name for himself as the archivist/author for the Lee estate throughout the 1990's - authoring and editing several books on Lee as well as producing a highly regarded documentary called A Warrior's Journey.

After a self-enforced exile of several years John was in the pre-production phase for a new documentary concerning many of the filming locations used in several of Lee's later films. He had contacted me on the strength of my Lee-obsessed posts on version one of this blog and was hoping to get me involved for the Hong Kong and Macau aspect of the filming.


Sadly, my rather busy family schedule pretty much put paid to anything resembling flexibility with my time, so I had to regretfully decline. However, as you see in the above credit sequence, I did get a small mention. The reason was because during one of our chats John had expressed an immense desire to locate the place used for one specific scene from Enter The Dragon and I said I would have a dig around and see what I could find. The location John referred to was a bit of stumper and I had in fact tried, unsuccessfully, to find it previously. The location can be seen at the very beginning of the film when Lee faces off against a very young, but still rather tubby,  Sammo Hung. Here is a quick reminder. The key to the scene is the odd shaped hilltop in the background.


The scene is quite significant because although it appeared at the beginning of the film (mashed together with a shot of Ching Chun Koon in Tuen Mun), it was in fact the very last bit of filming that Lee did...EVER.

John had hoped I could do some research and have the place ready for him when he arrived with his film crew in the first week of August 2009. Unfortunately, it didn't quite work out that way. July rolled by and I was having no luck whatsoever. This was back at a time when my hunting skills were still fairly undeveloped and my knowledge Hong Kong as a whole was fairly limited. I say this because most seasoned hikers would already have known the location just by looking at the above screen cap.

Along came August and the film crew arrived and I had nothing to give them. John had almost immediately recorded interviews with both Yuen Wah and Stephen Tung Wei and neither knew or could remember where the filming had taken place. Considering that Yuen Wah was the stuntman who performed the various flips in that scene, the fact that he couldn't remember didn't really bode too well for our success. The only other person who might know was Sammo Hung himself and John had tried desperately to get some time with him for an interview but without success. The reason was that Sammo had been admitted to hospital with heart problems during filming of Ip Man 2. He was incommunicado undergoing a battery of tests at the Baptist Hospital in Kowloon Tong.

The week ticked by. John did filming at various locations in HK and Macau: Tai Tam Bay, Muslim Cemetery, Ching Chun Koon, King Yin Lei, Woodland Crest in Sheung Shui, Camoes Garden, as well as some non-film related places such as Bruce's old schools. He also conducted several more interviews with such people as Chaplin Chang and Ip Chun. By the end of the week he had a whole bunch of locations, not all were film-related, but nothing regarding this famous fight scene. I'll be honest when I say I felt bad for not being able to find it in time. John and the crew left for Italy where they were going to capture the various places used in Way of the Dragon and I promised to keep him up to date in case I found anything useful.

So, after all the excitement of the film crew, I got back to my usual routine but spent an hour or so each night trying to track down this location and following up various clues. By now I had begun to take it quite personally. Now, you have to bear in mind that Enter The Dragon was filmed in 1973, and in 2009 that was still almost 40 years previously. Everything changes over time and really the only reliable (and even this isn't true 100% of the time) thing that can be compared is the ridge lines of hills and mountains in the background. So this is how it was for the next few weeks: looking at page after page of pictures of HK hillsides and mountains from as many different sources as I could find. My eyes seemed to be going square with all the staring at the screen and eventually decided to change tack and start looking at other parts of the film scene in the hope that they might reveal some previously unnoticed detail.

It wasn't until I started played around with Microsoft�s Photosynth and stringing several screen caps together that I was able to get some semblance of a useful background. Finally I had a distant ridge line that  looked (kinda) familiar. Here is a rough example of what I had to work with, although this is a stitch using a program called Autostitch.


Now, it was initially a bit tenuous, but it was all I had (this was before Google had introduced Streetview to Hong Kong) and I felt that the hills at the back left were very similar to the following ones seen in the background of Way of the Dragon. These two hills below looked as though they matched the ones that are either side of the yellow-garbed figure on the left in the above shot. Anyway, it wasn't much to go on but seeing as I knew the location of the Way of the Dragon scene, I figured it would be a good idea to start looking in the Sheung Shui area.


Now, Sheung Shui is reasonably flat for the best part but has hills either side of it and logic (taking into consideration the environment that is visible in the film) dictated to me that the west part was a more likely spot, so it really wasn't long before I had some candidates to investigate. The most likely, called Tai Shek Mo, didn't seem to have any pictures online, at least none that I could find, and so a quick trip up to the area was called for - easy seeing as I was still living in Taipo at the time.

So I hopped on the train and jumped in a cab and told the driver to take me to the village next to the hillside - a place called Ho Sheung Heung. It wasn't until the cab was driving along Castle Peak Road about to turn into the village road that I knew I had the right place because I had the perfect view of the hill from the back of the cab. Here is basically what I saw.


So this is when I started to get excited because as far as I was concerned it was a perfect match. If only I had access to Streetview back then I may have solved this in time for when the film crew were over, but, such is life. I arrived at the village and headed into the village hall/shop and got chatting to a local villager who had basically lived there from birth and, after showing him a contact sheet with all the film grabs on, he confirmed that the area was indeed around here - in fact in the wooded area behind the village (it was a so-called 'fung shui' wood). However, he told me he used to play there when he was younger but the area was now completely overgrown and full of snakes.

Anyway, I ate some noodles at the shop, thanked the guy and went for a wander to get my bearings. I walked the complete perimeter of the wood and couldn't find a single place to get in. There were some pathways cut but they only went in fairly shallow and all led to graves and/or ossuary pots urns. I ended by walking up to a decent vantage point on nearby Tai Shek Mo and took some photos. Of course, at this point it was quite clear that the area I was interested in was fairly large and it would be hard to pinpoint the exact spot, but anyway it was a start. Here are some of the photos I took that day.

 Tai Shek Mo
Looking south - back toward the wood

I took this latter picture because the small hill you can see in the middle can also be seen on film - behind Roy Chiao as he sits presiding over the fight, and it provides a handy reference for seeing which way the set was laid out.


It was quite obvious from my own camera angles that the area I was after was further south - somewhere in amongst the trees, but on that day this was the closest I could get. On a positive note, it was nice to finally know I was in the approximate area of where the filming took place and, of course, it was pleasing to know that the place hadn't been buried under a several thousands tons of Chow Tai Fook and Prada handbag shops. However, locating the actual spot was going to prove a bit more difficult.

Whittling down the location was done in several ways. First I got a 1976 aerial view of the location from the mapping office. As you can see below (the picture is oriented horizontally) the area was more sparse back in the 70's and had multiple open areas as well as tracks leading to them. It also revealed that this finger of land consisted of three small hillocks.


They may be a bit difficult to make out on the black and white picture, but thanks to the Home Affairs Dept, we also have a contoured map showing each hill. In the picture below, the close contours of Tai Shek Mo can be seen at the top, and the more widely spaced contour lines - indicating a rather more gentle decline - of the three small hills as well as Ho Sheung Heung village to the right (east).


So anyway, September rolled around and on my next free day called up my buddy Eddy and we took some rather nasty looking chopping blades along and hacked our way onto the top of the lower hill (Hill 1). Sadly, although there was a clearing at the top, it was small and just didn't seem to be the right place. I was fairly certain that it was the middle hills we needed to get to but the foliage was impassable.

My reasoning was that in some of the film scenes (like the one below) you can see the rather pointy top hill (Hill 3) in the background. If you look at the screen capture below, you can see a yellow dirt path going up a small hill on the left. This is Hill 3 and is, as it turns out, currently the only other accessible point in the woods. Just to the right is another small pointy hill that is on the lower slope of Tai Shek Mo. I've also marked them to make it easier to see.


So, I went back by myself again and tried once more to get to the middle hill without success, but rather than leave empty handed I decided to find a way up to Hill 3 and managed to find a small path further up near the village that led straight up. Here are some more pictures from that day.


So in these two pictures above you can see the second hill I marked on the screencap, basically where the second red arrow is pointing, and I took the picture from the top of Hill 3 (first red arrow). I think this hill is easy to access because it is perhaps used by the villagers for flying a flag at certain festivals - there is a concrete base at the top with a hole in it for a flag pole. Actually, these picture also show one of the main reasons why this location hasn't been used for filming for a long time, but I'll get to that later. In the meantime, here is a photo looking south from Hill 3 towards Hill 2. Yes, that rather overgrown bit of green in the middle.



It's on top of that hill (and to the left a bit) that the fight with Sammo was filmed. The pine trees that were obvious on the film have all gone - actually there are only a few left in the thicker part of the wood, most other seem to have been cut down or just disappeared - perhaps victims of 40 years of typhoon damage?. Sadly though, this is still the closest I have been able to get, the foliage over there is several feet deep and I have yet to find the time and courage to launch a full scale assault on the place. Just for clarity I've marked the location in question on both the 1976 picture and a modern aerial courtesy of GoogleEarth.



As luck would have it, not long after I found this place, my kids started horse riding lessons at the nearby Lo Wu Saddle Club and for quite some time I was making a regular weekly trip up here. Over the months and years I have noticed new paths have been cut out and some fresh graves put down. Some of them look as though they may be helpful for gaining access to Hill 2, but I have yet to try. What I will say is that Tai Shek Mo itself has been subject to two major hillfires in the past year - a side affect of having graves on the hillside and people who are too careless to take their burning offerings with them when they leave. What this means - and with the addition of new graves in the wood - is that the chances of a hillfire occurring in the wood seems to have risen and it really wouldn't surprise me one day to come up here and find everything burnt to the ground with unfettered access to Hill 2.

So there you go. Two months after being asked to find it, I finally managed to find the place, but sadly it was far too late for it to be included properly in the final documentary. John did include some of my findings in an earlier version of the film, which ended up being released by a French distribution company without John's knowledge, but sadly the final version saw it dropped. Never mind. John did get in touch a couple of years later when he found out I had got closer to the place, and asked me to send some high-res video for him to use. Sadly, my camera skills are shakey at best and it couldn't be done - however, as a result of that little effort he also gave me a small credit in his mini-doc called Return to Han's Island that was included in the 40th anniversary Bluray release of Enter the Dragon. Another small claim to fame but perhaps not really deserved second time around.

Anyway, with all that palava over with, it was interesting to find out, via my good friend from Germany, Andi (who has his excellent locations website here), has told me of many more films that used this very same location including several Shaw films such as All Men Are Brothers (1975), The Blood Brothers (1973), The Water Margin (1972), The Lady Hermit (1971). Sammo Hung even went back there in 1978 to film The Odd Couple and Yuen Woo Ping filmed a scene for Snake in the Eagle's Shadow there in 1979.

So there you go, it turns out the place was really well known amongst local film makers and was used on several occasions - I expect there to be more films as well that I don't know of yet. This makes it easier to understand why Bruce knew of the place and decided to use it. It was certainly picturesque when it was studded with tall pine trees and its rural nature meant it was a good place to fill in for a supposed Shaolin Temple.

The reason it wasn't used much beyond the late 70's should be obvious from my modern shots above. You'll have noticed that there is a great big electricity pylon slap bang on the middle of the hillside. Ugliness aside, it doesn't really pay to have a modern pylon showing up in the background of a shot from your period-set kung fu film. The pylon was probably erected when the New Town development in nearby Sheung Shui/Fanling took place in the 1980's. But more recent development over the nearby border in Shenzhen mean that even behind Tai Shek Mo there are rather large obvious skyscrapers that spoil the once rural view.

Okay, so this story isn't quite over yet because someone still has to make it onto Hill 2...is anybody willing to take up the challenge?